I
was scared But this helped
And
to all a good night!
January something, 2006

On the
road to Avoriaz
The bib draw was
Saturday night in a smoky, deafening disco here at the resort. Barry White
was encouraging the tipsy, forgettable romances about to occur while we
shouted at each other; “OH MY GOD THIS CHEESE IS DELICIOUS TRY THE SALAMI”
“WHAT?” “I SAID TRY THE” “WHAT? WHY WOULD YOU FOLLOW ME?” “NO, TRY THE –
DID YOU EAT A TART YET?” “HUH? IS THIS MEAT?” After much accidental bumping
and grinding our way to the exit, we went home to bed and must have looked
like something from Night of the Living Dead trying to walk back up
the hill in the dark to our place; arms extended, Frankenstein gait, GAAAA,
AAAAAGH, GAAA… The time change really messed us up and we couldn’t get our
act together for a couple days. Tired, tired, tired and Tim on the cusp of
a sore throat.
January 8, 2006

Staging
area in Avoriaz
The race start was great
– late afternoon, a tangerine sunset, hot wine and healthy dogs. The course
went through the ski village, up through the mountains and back through the
village again; very manageable. Unless you’re Nick Akers, of course. He
smashed into a piece of metal maybe half a kilometer from the start and
thusly released his knee from any obligation it had to the ligaments holding
it in place. He’s done. It’s a cruel shame, as Nick says, and he’ll go
back to Great Britain on Friday.

Tim, the
Continental T- N- T
I love Gilligan!

Steve Gilligan

Waiting to go to the start
Life is good
The first leg on Sunday
was short; Tim doesn’t want to know times or standings and after all, it is
a very long race and anything can happen. After the first two days it
became clear that Jacque Philip and Emil E. would be neck and neck the whole
way; first Jacque would come through a checkpoint like a bullet train, and
then Emil; snow whipping up from his runners and only a contrail left in his
wake.
Monday brought us to Le
Gets (Lay Zhjetz), where a little boy, maybe seven or eight, struck up a
conversation while I tried to snack the dogs staked out on the truck.
“Peter” spoke to me first in French, then perfect King’s English; very
comical coming from someone without front teeth and their mittens on a
string. He was like a machine gun with the questions and it struck me that
there wasn’t an adult in sight, save for myself; “Are your parents here,
Peter? Did you come with your parents to this town for a ski vacation?” He
was trying to climb in the back of the truck. “Nah-ooo, m’parrintz ‘ave
doid, ahnd ah liv wiff m’bruvvah. M’ ahwldah bruvvah; yes, he’s a ski-ah,
and we-ah hee-ah togethah.” Hmmmmm. “Well, where do you go to school?
What grade are you in?” “Yes, wehww, Ah doen gahw tuh schooooooooool; may
oi giv this one a Digestive? A biscuit? Oi suspect it’s ape-ri-coht, but
perhaps it’s chock-lit; yes, wehww, this one’s quite cheeky then, don’t you
think?” MY GOD – HE’S BEEN KIDNAPPED BY A MAN HE’S GROWN TO BELIEVE IS HIS
BROTHER was my first thought as he kept at it, milling about in his colossal
snow pants. Then - his gig was up; “Pee-tah!....Pee-tah!.....PEE-TAH!”
and off he ran as his mother scolded him from a second-story
kitchen window.
On an unrelated note,
the trail remains highly “technical”; we’re only a couple days into the race
and Magali Philip’s in a cervical collar and Emil E. has dropped out; Benoit
B. found Emil hanging by his feet from the crotch of a tree, unable to feel
his body, blurry, dim spots his only vision. Apparently he was thrown from
the sled when he hit some ice at the bottom of a steep hill on a blind
curve. Benoit and Daniel J. got him to the ground, someone else warned the
oncoming mushers of the scene around the bend and by the time the E.M.T.s
arrived, ten teams had put their race aside to help Emil. He spent the
night in the hospital, very banged up, but he’ll be all right. On a certain
level, in this sport anyway, you come to expect the occasional broken wrist,
black eye, dislocated anything; but a potentially paralyzing accident made
us all sick. How could we be so out of touch with the idea of an incident
from which you could never recover?
Almost forgot - here’s
the team: Banjo, Dee, Professor, Gilligan, Thurston, Toast, Pancake, Poo,
Dave, Steve, Eleanor and Mr. Kite. They’re doing a spectacular job.
Pancake’s in heat and refuses to walk when she’s out of her kennel; we’ve
been giving her the rickshaw treatment, as I call it, carrying her up, down
and all around in her little shark-skin cape (the Emperoress’ new clothes -
so what if it is a shiny maroon dog jacket! ). The boys are embarrassing
themselves vying for her affections
Somewhere in this first
half of the race we spent the night in Abondance; their “cheese of the
village” is magnificently delicious and on a highly successful mission to
the butcher not only did I ask for, and get, “beef gristle”, but a big,
stinkin’ wedge of that cheese which festered deliciously in my luggage for a
week; no chicken breast incident this year!

Waiting for our room Abondance!
Detail, detail, detail
January 15, 2006
The second leg of the
race starts this morning, and try as I might to stay current with this we’ve
had not a moment’s rest and trying to find a phone or internet connection
has been a chore in itself. And obviously not successful.
Magali’s on the mend,
cervical collar off, and the trail for this half should be manageable for
everyone. The rules state that if a musher is unable to complete a leg of
the race, he or she cannot finish ahead of any musher who has completed all
legs of the race; as a result, Peter Carlsson and Magali will finish at the
back of the pack, no matter what. Peter had a really, really fast team,
too, but illness (either in the team or Peter) struck and voila.
Tim leaves fifth today,
still wearing bib number nineteen. They’ll go up to the polar base, stay
for the afternoon and then make their way back down again; maybe eighty
three kilometers total; he’ll take ten dogs for every leg from here on out.
Okay, time to hit the
road. Tim has to finish the wax job on the runners and then off we go to
the start. More later.
January 16, 2006
Yesterday’s run was
FAST. I picked them up in Sallieres and after ANOTHER delicious feast we
headed back to our apartment in Val Cenis.
ATTENTION SKIERS: a
week long lift ticket at this resort is 90 euros, or roughly 70 dollars; a
SEASON ski pass is 130 euros, and it’s the most beautiful terrain you’ll
ever want to see; I imagine the ski apartments are reasonable, as well.
.
In any event, today we
started at 3pm after YET ANOTHER delicious lunch, which was a regional
specialty that tasted very similar to finely ground pasty innards –
SPECTACULAR. Upon investigation, though, I learned it was pork, leeks,
carrots and cabbage. It must be steamed in an empty can of some sort, and
then sliced. I don’t know how we can keep up the food pace! And tonight, a
handler “soire” as the mushers have an overnight camp-out at Base Polare.
All right; battery’s
dying; Tim and train on the way to the polar base and they looked great.
OH! It was a mass start today in Bessans. IT WAS INSANE.
Later that day……………
I know this is supposed
to be about the race, but the food at the handler bash must be known; first
course: greens, croutons, ever-present cherry tomatoes, ever-present
vinegairette, ever-present shredded carrots and some kind of pinkish-brown
meat that had no grain. After two heapin’ helpins’, I asked Sylva (the
handler from last year who told me we were eating donkey, squirrels, etc.)
what the “meat” was and he said, “I done know the name, but eet eez a beerd
zay make eade zeh stone, then force feed it grainz, and now we eat zee
stomach!” “HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA” say I as it
slides on down, “what is
it, for real?” “AHAHAHAHAHA-HA haha… ha… ha… haWHAT? ARE YOU KIDDING
ME?!?!?!” Yup. On to the next course. Raclette. A sizzling hot
contraption is brought to the table, along with boiled potatoes, tiny
pickles (cornichons) and an assortment of dried cured meats. The machine
melts the Raclette cheese, and when it’s JUST RIGHT you pour it over your
potatoes and keep going. “Suddenly you will reach a moment when you know
you’ve had enough.” My dinner partners had to coach me through the process,
and then after I’d had 400 rounds of the stuff they told me I had to have
schnapps and hot tea to melt the molten wad that lay like a sinker in my
gut. What a beautiful mess. Amazingly, the cheese has the odor of (what I
imagine to be) a corpse, stuffed with old pillowcases and drizzled with
honey. Repulsive, yet I couldn’t back away. And to finish it all off, snow
white real ice cream with chocolate shaves and other-worldly cherry sauce.
Bon appetite!
January 17, 2006
They didn’t have a good
run. They made a wrong turn, I went to the wrong town and Gwen made a bunch
of time on Tim. Cross your fingers.
January 18, 2006
Back up to Base Polare;
it’s an unassisted checkpoint, meaning the mushers are forbidden assistance
from their handlers or anyone – not even a dry pair of socks; you best plan
ahead or you’re sh*t out of luck. It’s incredibly windy, sunny and cold
today; every speck of flesh had to be covered on the chairlift up to the
top, and once there you’d better keep moving or else; none-the-less, it was
a beautiful place to spend the afternoon, thanks to proper attire and the
knowledge that although most folks would find these conditions a nightmare,
Tim and the dogs love it; maybe he can make up some of the time he lost.

On the
chairlift – what a ride!
January 19, 2006
TIM NEEDS TO MAKE UP
FIVE MINUTES AND SOME CHANGE IN 70 KILOMETERS FOR THIRD PLACE. HANG ON!
OKAY – JUST SAW HIM GO BY GWEN ON HIS HEELS IT’S A TRUE RACE TO THE END.
JUST HEARD TIM MADE FIVE ON GWEN BY LANGSLEVILLARD – STILL SOME
TIME TO GO – GOING TO
THE FINISH LINE TO WAIT
LATER…….
WOW. Seven seconds.
The tension was palpable at the finish – we knew Tasha was coming in soon
and two teams after her (Gwen and Tim), and nobody knew who was coming
first. After Tasha came through it was almost too much to bear – a tight
downhill curve occluding the approach to the finish line so much so that you
had no idea who was at the end of the string of dogs barreling down. Then I
saw them. Steve and Dave and the bright orange harnesses and the crowd blew
up with cheers, I was crying, jumping and shouting, “IT’S HIM! IT’S HIM!
IT’S HIM!” and around the curve he came, a happier man you’ve never seen.
He hooked down and was kissing everyone, the dogs were rolling in the snow,
the elation tangible and pervasive; I’m shaking and choked up writing about
it. Gwen showed up five minutes and forty two seconds later. They did it
with seven seconds to spare.

Daybreak in the Alps; the last leg
January 21, 2006
We’re in Chicago now
after a wonderful flight; Tim fell asleep right after take off and
turbulence woke him up twenty minutes before we landed; I enjoyed another
four-course meal with the dashing Captain, who also pointed out Normandy,
Jersey, the English Channel and other landmarks as I sat behind him in the
cockpit; how can we be so lucky to have these experiences? How is it that
we saw a spot on earth where so much history took place from the cradle of a
cockpit? The Captain loves his job; he told me, “If I had my life to make,
I would choose the same again”. So would we.
